The rear hub carries the rear wheel, the brake drum on drum-brake bikes, and the axle in one casting. It takes the drive and braking loads at the back of the bike, so matching the drum size and axle bore is important. This guide helps you choose the right rear hub or rear brake drum.
1. Rear hub, brake drum, and what is cast together
On most commuter bikes the rear hub is a single casting that includes the brake drum surface, the bearing seats, and the spoke flange. Some listings call this a rear brake drum because that is the visible braking surface. Either way, confirm the unit includes the bearing bores and spoke flange you need.
2. Match the drum diameter and shoe width
Rear drums are sized to the model, commonly around 110 mm or 130 mm, with different shoe widths. A drum of the wrong diameter will not let the shoes seat or adjust correctly. Compare the size stated in the listing against your original drum.
3. Axle, bearings, and spacers
The hub must accept your axle diameter and bearing size, and the sprocket and brake-side spacers must sit correctly. Missing or incorrect spacers are a common cause of a wobbly rear wheel and rapid bearing wear, so keep them in order when stripping the wheel.
4. Spoke flange vs alloy mounting face
Spoke-wheel hubs have a drilled flange for the spokes; alloy-wheel bikes use a hub with a bolted mounting face. These are not interchangeable, so confirm your wheel type before ordering.
5. Symptoms that mean replacement
Grinding or metal-on-metal rear braking, a rear wheel that wobbles or has play, a drum that is scored or out of round, worn or loose wheel bearings, and shoes that wear out very fast all point to a worn hub. A cracked spoke flange means replacement, not repair.
6. Fitting tips
Replace the wheel bearings and seals while the wheel is off, clean the drum liner of grease, and fit new brake shoes and springs. Adjust the rear brake and chain tension after refitting, and check the wheel spins true before riding.
Bottom line
Confirm you need a spoke or alloy hub, match the drum diameter and axle bore, and renew the bearings and shoes at the same time. That keeps the rear wheel tight and the braking predictable.
Bike Model Fitment
| Bike Model | Year | Fits |
|---|---|---|
| Hero (Splendor, Splendor Plus, Passion, Super Splendor, Glamour) | 2000-present | Yes |
| Yamaha (RX 100, RXG, RX 135, Fazer, Gladiator) | 2000-present | Yes |
| Bajaj (Pulsar 150/180, Caliber, Discover) | 2000-present | Yes |
| Suzuki (Samurai, Flame) | 2000-present | Yes |
| TVS (Scooty, Victor) | 2000-present | Yes |
| Honda (Shine, Activa, Kinetic Honda) | 2000-present | Yes |
Quick Mechanic Diagnostic Checklist
- Confirm spoke wheel or alloy wheel hub
- Match the drum diameter and shoe width
- Check the axle diameter and bearing bore
- Keep the sprocket and brake-side spacers in order
- Inspect the drum liner for scoring or ovality
- Replace wheel bearings and seals
- Fit new brake shoes and springs
- Check the wheel spins true after refitting
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know which rear hub fits my bike?
Match your exact model, confirm spoke or alloy wheel type, and check the drum diameter and axle bore. The listing states the models and size covered.
Is a rear hub the same as a rear brake drum?
On most commuter bikes the rear hub is a single casting that includes the brake drum surface, bearing seats, and spoke flange. Many listings call the whole unit a rear brake drum.
Why does my rear wheel wobble?
Usually worn wheel bearings, missing or incorrect spacers, or a loose axle nut. Replace the bearings, refit the spacers in the correct order, and torque the axle properly.
Do I need new bearings when replacing the rear hub?
It is strongly recommended. Bearings are cheap relative to the labour, and the old ones are usually worn by the time the hub needs replacing.
Are these rear hubs genuine OEM spec?
They are OEM-spec rear hubs made to the original drum size, axle bore, and mounting. The listing names the exact models covered.